Cape Cod is perched on a stretch of ocean warming faster than nearly any in the world. It was getting late in the season: Would the far-flung wayfarer return?âThe bird will make the judgment,â he said, âif birds do that.âIf Ahanu did not return, it would not necessarily mean much about the Cape. Ocean quahogs are declining near the Cape and increasing to the north, both because of warming and ocean acidification. And such devastating events will likely happen more often.Meanwhile, the rapid warming of the arctic has caused a considerable slowing trend in the jetstream, Francis explained, causing weather that would have otherwise moved more rapidly north to get stuck in place, its destructive power lingering.Jutting out into this corner of the North Atlantic, built on a pile of sand and rock, the Cape was vulnerable long before people began walking its beaches. Before he turned 20, he was in charge of the ice cream line, making milkshakes faster than anyone. To the millions of us who visit Cape Cod once or twice a summer, the effects of climate change can seem subtle, if we see them at all: A breach in … The Cape was a different place then — the canal bridges had opened just three years earlier. It has happened before and it will happen again.But that is difficult to see, and harder to believe, until the water arrives at the back door.âIâve been here all my life, and Iâve seen pristine and thatâs not what we have now,â said Chuckie Green, the natural resources director for the Mashpee Wampanoag tribe.Green grew up swimming in Santuit Pond, back before cyanobacteria turned it murky and green, unsafe for people and their pets. A crack in the pavement. His typical catch was cut in half. Bay scallops are all but gone along the Cape, the eelgrass where they spend their early lives disappearing under rising seas and being devoured by invasive crabs.And cod, the New England staple for which the Cape is named, are struggling to recover from decades of overfishing in water that is now too warm and too oxygen-depleted for the iconic fish to rebound to their former abundance.Meanwhile, species such as black sea bass, longfin inshore squid, and summer flounder, once rare this far north, have arrived in abundance. Flood-proofing homes can be both complicated and expensive, said Shannon Jarbeau, a flood plain manager who works with communities all over the Cape to enforce building codes that help drive down flood insurance rates, which now average about $2,000 a year.Such costs are sure to accelerate a trend which already threatens something that makes the Cape special, compared to its island neighbors — economic diversity, the working class and the well-to-do mingling where sand meets sea.“There’s a significant potential,” Jarbeau said, “for gentrification of the coast.”One day in June, a cement mixer rolled into the parking lot at Herring Cove Beach in Provincetown, preparing to pour a pad for a new emergency phone: Dial in case of sharks.The presence of great white sharks in the waters around the Cape, lured by a booming seal population, has fundamentally changed the way people interact with the beaches here.
To make any sense of the present and peer into the future, you have to look deep into the past.Since the last of the ancient glaciers that covered the northern half of North America receded and left Cape Cod protruding from the coastline, erosion has been the Cape’s geologic birthright. But each one also prevents that sand from traveling to the beach downstream. But in recent years, it has been warming faster than 99 percent of the world’s oceans. United States, 1938.1954: A home on Falmouth Heights was destroyed by Hurricane Carol. These bald spots in what should be a thriving wetland ecosystem are the work of nocturnal purple marsh crabs, which feast on the soft grasses overnight.Next to the Herring River along the Great Island Trail, nocturnal crabs fed on the grasses. In Truro, a ramshackle old home on Ballston Beach was in the Moore/Musnuff family for over a century. Millions of dollars in grants, working groups packed with national experts, and voluminous, detailed reports have made Massachusetts a national leader in the field.One recent example: Through its Resilient Cape Cod project, funded by a $780,000 grant from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the Cape Cod Commission, the regional planning and regulatory agency on the Cape, has identified dozens of strategies to protect the Cape’s coasts from the rising seas and major storms.
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